![]() ![]() During the 1960s Cardin sold widely in the US and the UK through department stores like Selfridges. He added moulded plastic visors to helmet-like hats to make them resemble astronauts' headgear. He preferred crisp, supple textiles like wool crepe and jersey, manufactured by the Italian firm Nattier.Ĭardin was also fascinated by new 'space age' materials like vinyl, silver fabrics and large zips. His dresses were decorated with circular and rectangular motifs. His interest in architecture showed up in the geometric shapes which became his trademark in the 1960s. Pierre Cardin Iconic Space Age Red Leather Dress, 1960s - 1970s, scoop neck, sleeveless, zip back, top stitch detail, size S/M, condition consistent. ![]() However, by doing this he sold clothing to a wider public and many designers followed his example. He made collarless suits which the Beatles' later stage costume resembled.īy producing a ready-to-wear collection in 1959, Cardin broke the rules of the top French couture guild. Many people expected Cardin to succeed Dior, but he left to set up his own firm in 1950.ĭuring the fifties Cardin opened a menswear boutique in Paris where he sold new, informal men's gear like collarless jackets and roll neck jumpers. Dior then employed him during the era of the New Look. After training as a tailor, he worked for two Paris design houses, Paquin and Schiaparelli. Pierre Cardin (born 1922) was born in Venice to French parents and educated in France. Pierre Cardin Past, Present, Future, 1990. Pierre Cardin, who has died at the age of 98, was famous for his groundbreaking and timeless fashion designs, which drew on inspirations including the 60s space race. 'The clothes that I prefer are those I invent for a life that doesn't exist yet - the world of tomorrow.' Ultimately, his legacy lies in his modernity and desire to democratise high fashion, House of Cardin offers a comprehensive look into the designer’s world brand but fails to dig deeper into the man behind the brand.Cosmos day ensemble, Pierre Cardin, 1967. ![]() Following the release of the documentary, the designer passed away on 29 December 2020 aged 98. What the documentary does effectively show is Cardin’s prolific work ethic and unwavering urge to create, whether haute couture or an everyday water bottle. Whilst the documentary provides a comprehensive retrospective of all aspects of his artistry, mid-way through the second half does feel off-piste with a focus on Cardin’s foray into worldwide brand expansion in the 1970s. Ultimately, we do not crack the designer’s enigmatic persona. Although hinted at within the documentary, there is little in terms of the direct impact this decision had on his business, particularly during the brand’s less successful years in the 1990s and 2000s. A wide range of Cardin branded commodities pop up to varying degrees of success including fragrance, homeware, playing cards, and even the AMC Javelin car in 1972. Greater attention is instead placed on the designer’s controversial role as couturier provocateur, with his decision to sell his designs in department stores and lease out his brand license to factories worldwide. A highlight is footage of Japanese husband and wife, world-renowned Cardin collectors who show off their impressive collection that spans their lives together.Ĭloser analysis of the impact of Cardin’s sartorial innovations as well as personal relationships between garment and wearer would be welcomed in the documentary. ![]() Surprisingly, there is little attention to some of the designer’s more well-known contributions to fashion, with the documentary only touching briefly on innovations such as the ‘bubble hem’, Space-Age unisex garments and his contribution to The Beatles’ sartorial legacy. Mirroring Cardin’s eclectic life, the documentary features contemporary interviews from a who’s who of twentieth-century popular culture including former employee Jean Paul Gaultier, Dionne Warwick, Sharon Stone, Naomi Campbell and, oddly enough, Alice Cooper as well as archival footage and commentary from the designer. David Ebersole and Todd Hughes interject Cardin’s career highlights alongside hints at his personal life including an affair with French New Wave actress Jeanne Moreau, tensions with Yves Saint Laurent and complicated relationship with partner André Oliver. Regarded as a pioneer, Cardin had many industry firsts within his career including the first menswear collection from a couturier in 1960 and hosting Russia’s first fashion in the Red Square, 1991. House of Cardin is an expansive retrospective of Italian born designer Pierre Cardin, largely known for his futuristic couture at the height of the ‘lunar age’ of the 1960s. ![]()
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